On May 10, 1996, two commercial expeditions headed by expert leaders attempted to scale the world's largest peak. But things went terribly wrong. Crowded conditions, bad judgement, and a bitter storm stopped many climbers in their tracks. Others were left for dead, or stranded on the frigid mountain. Anatoli Boukreev, head climbing guide for the Mountain Madness expedition, stepped into the heart of the storm and brought all six of his clients down alive. Here is his amazing story - of an expedition fated for disaster, of the blind ambition that drives people to attempt such a dangerous ventures, and of a modern-day hero, who risked his own life to save others.