Madeleine Vionnet

Edited by Pamela Goblin.

Founded in 1912, Vionnet was the first fashion house to create pretty-porter designs from haute couture for sale in the American market. In the 1920s Vionnet created a stir by introducing the bias cut, a technique for cutting cloth diagonal to the grain of the fabric enabling it to cling to the natural curves of a woman's body and echo its fluidity of motion. Vionnet's use of the bias cut to create a sleek, flattering, look revolutionized fashion by integrating form and movement -- as well as comfort -- into her designs. She believed that "when a woman smiles, then her dress should smile too," and consequently her designs were the first truly modern ones of the 20th century that showed off a women's natural shape. Casting aside the padding and stiffening, so emblematic of previous eras, that distorted the natural curves of a woman's body, her designs became the iconic classic look of the 1930's and beyond. Vionnet also used fabrics that were unusual at the time such as chiffon, silk, Moroccan cr?pe, cr?pe de chine, gabardine, and satin. She would order fabrics two yards wider than necessary in order to accommodate "draping" thereby creating clothes - particularly dresses - that were luxurious and sensual but also simple and modern. Characteristic Vionnet styles that clung to and moved with the wearer included the handkerchief dress, cowl neck, and halter top. Her designs dominated fashion in the 1930s setting trends with her sensual gowns worn by such stars as Marlene Dietrich, Katharine Hepburn, and Greta Garbo. She fought for copyright laws in fashion and mentored later designers, passing on her principles of elegance, movement, architectural form and timeless style. Madeleine Vionnet's sophisticated and sensual approach to couture remain a strong and pervasive influence on contemporary fashion. This gorgeously illustrated book features over 80 models photographed by Patrick Gries as well as original patterns and additional photographs by iconic fashion photographers such as Horst, Hoyningen-Huene, Steichen, and more. A beautiful and extensive fashion book, that showcases the work of a pioneer of women's fashion and sensuality in dressing.