From the Lonely Planet Journeys series.
Most of us only dream of dropping out of the nine to five; Daniel Duane lives his dream, moving from San Francisco to the surfing mecca of Santa Cruz.
Daniel joins the arcane world of the surfer, learning the language, picking up surfer etiquette and eventually discovering that best-kept secret: where to find the perfect wave.
Daniel is as passionate about his surroundings as he is about surfing. Surfing legends, tall tales of deadly waves and killer sharks, the dynamics of waves and surfboard design, the importance of Gidget, Jack London and "Endless Summer" . . . all are seamlessly blended in this keenly perceived narrative.
Breathtakingly original, Daniel evokes life on the coast in a way that is superbly lyrical and immensely entertaining.