Jonathan Keates's Italy is an Italy of neglected grandeur, hidden beauty and paradox - a place where history is never far away. After twenty years of restless wandering, Keates savours the differing and delicious flavours of Liguria, Emilia, Tuscany and Lombardy. He finds a magician's cave in Piedmont, Chinese mummies in Umbria, epic poetry in a Bolognese pasticceria, and bingo in Florence . . .