An unforgettable range of writing, past and present, that perfectly maps the richness and variety of Istanbul. - Orhan Pamuk makes his own museum - Elif Shafak shops in the Grand Bazaar - William Dalrymple rides the Bosphorus ferries - Oya Baydar pictures some ordinary lives - Geert Mak enjoys the Galata Bridge - Yashar Kemal recalls a moving tradition - Maureen Freely adores her adopted city - Orhan Kemal comes in from the countryside - Rory Maclean travels by 'magic bus' ... and much, much more
