Paris is often underestimated as a city. Yes, the City of Lights provides the benchmark of original, classic style in fashion, history, art, food, architecture and romance, but it is also a city whose cutting edge continues to influence movers and shakers around the world in these, and other, arenas. Bars, clubs and cafes are changing outlooks across the globe and the latest crop of young designers are showing there's much more to Mode a la Parisienne than Coco, Christian, Yves and the super- brands of yesteryear. Home-grown and imported comedy, film and poetry top the billing at a whole host of up and coming underground and alternative venues. Paris is definitely back in vogue.